Ice Cream Run to Reeth

The weather this week has been stunning, with unusually high temperatures for this time of year. We decided that it was easily warm enough for the first outing of our leathers in 2012. We decided to have a fairly short run around the Dales and so headed over to Clitheroe by our usual roads. From Clitheroe we followed our usual route to Settle via the minor backs roads of Sawley and Wigglesworth. We stopped in Settle for lunch at the Ye Old Naked Man Café.

We left Settle and joined the B6479 and passed through Horton in Ribblesdale before turning right at Ribblehead Viaduct. We then followed the stunning B6255 to Hawes. The dodgy resurfacing that was carried out last year has completely bedded in now and so I have complete faith in this stretch of road again. Just as we arrived at Hawes we noticed that a new 40mph zone had been added just before you get to the 30mph zone. It is quite a sensible speed reduction zone and is not extended further than is required. We passed through Hawes and then turned off the main road to take the road over Buttertubs Pass to Muker. Thankfully there were no sheep about trying to commit suicide this time. We passed through Muker and then followed the B6270 through Gunnerside to Reeth. This is not really a road for stiffly setup sportbikes as it is very bumpy in places. I left the ground several times on the ZX-9R so I can quite imagine how bad it could be on a sportsbike. At some point along this road we did come across an imbecile who had parked up around a blind bend in a dip on our side of the road. Anyone coming around this corner at speed, whether it be a car or bike would have been in trouble. We soon arrived in Reeth and stopped to sample one of the many lovely ice cream flavours on offer.

We left Reeth on the B6270 and headed towards Grinton, where we turned onto minor roads and headed over Wipperdale Bank past the rifle range to Leyburn. In Leyburn we joined the A684 and headed back to Hawes. From Hawes we re-traced our route all the way back home, with a brief stop at Clitheroe Services for fuel.

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VFR Caliper Rebuild

After having a go on Helen’s VFR last year I realised how bad the brakes on my VFR had actually become. So I decided that the constant glazing of the front discs was most properly due to the pistons binding. The discs are quite pitted as well but I really don’t want to be buying some new discs when I am likely to replace the VFR next year. So I decided the best course of action was to strip down the calipers and replace all the seals and then to fit a new set of brake pads to the fronts.

I removed all the brake calipers and then slightly ejected all of the pistons. I then sucked out all of the brake fluid with a brake vacuum pump. I disconnected the banjo bolts and then ejected the pistons from the caliper bores with compressed air. All of the pistons were slightly pitted but looked in good condition otherwise, bar one off the rear caliper that was heavily scored. The caliper bores and seals looked in good condition, so I cleaned the bores and fitted the new sets of seals anyway. I also decided to replace the heavily scored rear caliper piston. I then re-assembled the calipers and refitted the pads and re-installed all the brake pipes and banjo bolts. I then refilled the brake fluid and sucked it through with the brake vacuum pump. I would advise that you purchase one if you intend to do this job as you will struggle to get the fluid through without one. Once the fluid was through it was time to bleed the brakes, I started with the fronts as you can do this yourself. Do the left caliper first (top bleed nipple) then the right hand caliper, you can now seal the front brake reservoir.

Now for the pain in the arse rear circuit, you will need a second person for this. You need to remove the front left caliper and put something in between the pads to stop the pistons being ejected. You then need to bleed at the proportional valve by the battery, while someone activates the secondary master cylinder pushrod at the left front caliper. Once that is clear it’s time to bleed at the rear caliper middle bleed nipple, while again activating the secondary master cylinder pushrod. The Haynes manual advises you to remove the caliper and re-mount it the other way round on top of the disc, to make the bleed nipples accessible. I found even doing this I was unable to get all the air out. The solution is to remove the caliper and place something between the pads and then rest the calliper on top of the disc with the bleed nipple pointing directly upwards, only then did I manage to get all the air out. Once that is done you need to bleed the rear pedal circuit. First is the servo proportional valve (right side under seat by fuel tank), then the rear outside bleed nipple and then the front left lower bleed nipple. If after this the rear pedal is still a bit spongy there is more than likely still air in the secondary master cylinder circuit. Unfortunately due to the MOT having lapsed on the VFR I am unable to test the brakes properly till I have taken it in, I will update this post after that point.

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